Source: CCTV.com

08-15-2006 10:31

Hi, welcome to travelogue. I am Yanling, still in Chengdu. This capital of the ancient Shu Kingdom, is one of the fastest growing city in china today. It promises travelers "once you have been, you will be reluctant to leave", of course under the condition that you take your time to truly savor all it has to offer, shall we start with a cup of tea?

Most Chinese metropolis today baffles with the balance of galloping towards modernization and preserving traditional way of living.

Few cities in China today like Chengdu that is so fond of memories from the past, and manage to actually living in it.

Even growing in rocket speed, Chengdu, the city of more than 8 million, somehow feels like a rare city oasis where the bustle slows down and the original spirit stays intact. And what is it? Where to feel it?

Once you are in Chengdu, you have to learn one word, and truly understand the spirit of it – xiuxian -- allow yourself to relax as long as you need, so idling around in one of teahouses for 5 hours doesn't make you a slacker in Chengdu.

Chengdu teahouses are everywhere. Scattered at every corner of the streets, in every park and even in every office compound...

Pensioners or pillars of the society? People of all kinds patronize teahouses more often than their grocery shop.

So what do you see in a teahouse in an afternoon? Small society, as Chengdu people call it. It is the perfect spot to relax, to socialize; to people-watch.

Once you are in teahouses, enjoy the timeless quality of your teatime. Even the waiters and waitress on duty often take it slow since there is no such demand as for fast and efficient service.

But for someone who works as ear-picker, an age-old rare profession that is probably hard to find a job elsewhere, they take their job very seriously.

Although their tools remind me of my dentist's scary weapons, how can I pass on the chance to try something for the first time?!

It was certainly both eyes opening and ear opening experience to have my ear picked outside of my bathroom, by someone else, in such a complicated procedure...

Not every teahouse has to be this adventurous of course. Some people would like to compare Chengdu teahouses with coffee houses in Paris, probably not after been ear cleaned in Renmin park, more likely have enjoyed a cup of green tea in one of these kind of teahouses along Funan river,

Chengdu locals take pride in their city for good reasons. History and commerce, animal and people apparently all meet in peace.

Chengdu people love dogs, yes, as pet.

Once you step into the dog market by Funan River on a Sunday morning, you will understand why Chengdu locals prankishly call it "international dog expo". A full display of the beauty of variations--color, race, origin and character!

As a dog devotee, it surprised me that many of them even I haven't seen before...

I am so jealous of those who take a little puppy home today. You get good bargains here. Of course it takes more than just money to have a dog. You need have a comfortable living, slow paced life, contented life style. Sooner or later, I will have a dog, perhaps have to move down here then...

That's the down side of being a traveler, many things you love and care. You can't take them home.

But if you are a flea market fanatic, and happen to be in the city on Sunday. This is the best place to rummage and find some carriable bargain. Everything from old books and coins, Tang potteries to old gramophones from unidentifiable origin, you never know what you will find to take home.

Some stall owners here are hobby collectors themselves, they tend to be more nonchalant to price negotiation, but more keen in lecturing you about their "real thing",

Some others are mind readers. They look at your interest and experience then offering you a price that's just slightly out of your sustainable budget...

I am just a travel reporter, but really if you are interested in Chinese antique furniture you don't have to read a million trillion books, all you need is a feeling and a vibe. It's about picking up things, holding them, and smelling them. Conveys that kind of affinity, feel like yours? Take it home! This one? It is nice but should belong to someone else..."

I was there mostly for the fun, not the finds, but here?! Chengdu snacks, Chengdu xiaochi, something I wont miss!

Chills don't simply blast the taste buds, they stimulate them as well,

Chengdu is a city of simplicity and sophistication. Place of abundance, people who have time, no wonder it becomes a center of modern poetry and modern art scene in the Southwest.

I met a sculptor in Chengdu Huayuan, a small art gallery hidden in old town yet a famous venue for modern art exhibits.

After have met many entreprenant modern artists in China, modern art starts becoming more disputable to me.

Talking to Mr. Shi certain restored my faith in Chinese modern artists: who are not sitting between two chairs of the old and the new, the foreign and the local, but comfortably settle in the middle, rooted in local culture, incorporating traditional elements, free from choices of material, creating a new form of expression.

When you walk into a Sichuan house, or walk around the entire city, sweeps of the distinguished ma la flavor will easily make you crave for more Sichuan food. My pleasant modern art exhibit visit also restored my confidence in fusion food.

Dining here is certainly not only a gastronomic experience--the setting with a Japanese twist glazed the Chengdu local fondue: hotpot, into something less social, but certainly has a more exclusive and even romantic appeal.

Some may question the authenticity of such fusion food. But as I was told, it is never a concern here in Sichuan. Searching for variations and find dining experience is Chengdu locals' insatiable pursuit; Sichuan cooking has the tradition of encouraging innovation to meet that need.

Certain tourist programs are so obligatory in travel itinerary that it feels like a must, then it feels less attemptive, like the Sichuan opera show, but once you are there, you will understand why you can't miss it. This is certainly one of these moments!

It is easy for today's well-traveled audience to suppose the secret behind changing face and spitting fire in Sichuan opera, but it is hard not to be impressed.

Puppet show is always my favorite. Every time I cant help gawping at the performer and wondering how someone can inject life into a wooden dummy and turn it into a person of character, this case, a vivid beauty of character that easily won the heart of all, effortlessly...

As xiuxian as it is, Chengdu is a vibrant modern city after all, 5 minutes walk in Chunxi road, the center of the city, you will feel charged with an extra doze of energy, 15mins walking around all shopping malls and sale signs will raise your heartbeat, 50mins later, loaded with your harvested shopping bags and more faith in the city in process, you will probably find Chengdu's urban marketing slogan "a city once you come, you will find it hard to leave" makes very much sense.

But for Chengdu locals who work hard for it, a temporary leave is almost necessary. I learned a new phrase called 5/2 people here addressing for local weekenders. Some of them simply drive to villages around the city and spend two nights at farmers house, and some others lives more regularly 5 days in the city and 2 days in the suburbs.

For most city people, the urge of a respite from the city is often coincide with the unquenchable longing for it.

Reasons? Too many...

One can find hotpot all over China in one form or another, it has really been taken to heart by the Sichuanese and for the most striking adaptation to local taste you find here.

After a few days getting my feet wet in Chengdu night scene, it was not difficult to get a horde of youngsters together and guide me to taste the true hotpot, again, no whimpy sweat and sour, only the authentic MA and LA, tingling spicy.

The season the cooked food in oil spiced with MSG, salt and chili powder. The effect is powerful. Locals explain its use as a result of climate - chilies are warming in winter and cooling in summer and, according to Chinese medicine, dispel "wet" illnesses brought about by humid conditions. But I found MA LA hotpot is simply the best socializing dinner. When you share a big hotpot of munchies over cold beers with your warm new friends, it guarantees a MALA: tingling spicy party!

Chengdu's nightlife has to be one of the most vibrant I have seen in China, certainly starts earlier than Shanghai, ends later than Beijing, as many night street food stalls as Guangzhou.

From my new friends, these youngsters who are always on the prowl for something new, I learned about their favorite little bar, a place magnetizes loyal underground rock music fans, 5 years in a roll, quite a record for a bar of any kind.

Over the past 5 years, Ms. yang, called “sister Yang" by her baby bands offered the little stage for free to young musicians. Many of them are college students and newly graduates who are struggling in finding themselves musically and personally. She said she was just touched by their passion for things they love, and she simply wanted to support this kind of attitude of searching and life style in progress.

Please don't tell me they sound similar with some other bands. It is just so refreshing to hear the new voices, seeing so many young faces together, here in Chengdu. The contrast of old and new in this city always amazes me. And the balance of urban scene and wonderful nature always make my trip exciting. I am going out of Chengdu next week and need find some travel companions, so many people inside, easy, right? See you next week, I am Yanling

 

Editor:Chen Minji