Southeastern Guizhou II

cctv.com 05-10-2004 14:49

Guizhou is a land in southwestern China filled with mystery and wonder. Today we continue our exploration of the Southeastern part of the province by heading down to Jiuzhou, an old gray town with a faded glorious history. Jiuzhou sits in Huangping county, two hours' drive north of Kaili, the capital of Southeastern Guizhou.

As a water and land transport hub, Jiuzhou used to be a thriving business town. Much of its old architecture reflects the style of buildings from the lower reaches of the Yangtze River, thousands of miles away. These buildings are the legacies of successful business people who traveled from the far reaches of this vast country.

The Chinese Han and the Miao people live together in this area. Coming to this kind of market is a chance to see some of what their everyday lives are like. Here you can see people shop for their daily needs. You can also see the Miao people in their traditional dress. This regular event breathes life into the ancient town.

The town is genuinely old. Its origins can be traced back more than two thousand years. Today, most of its town/city walls are gone but a number of old buildings still stand, testifying to its former prestige.

In Wenchanggong, a temple dedicated to literary achievement, some old people gather to practice Taiji. The peacefulness of the old people reflects the mood of the ancient town. The old town blends Han and Miao culture with western influences.

Take the chance to visit the remains of the town's Catholic church. It's all dilapidated, but people still remember a French priest used to live here. It's said that when the Communist Red Army trekked through the region, General Xiaoke found a map in French in this church which played a key role in directing army's next move.

In another old building, the Tianhougong, a former temple dedicated to the Goddess of the Sea, a group of old Miao women perform a traditional dance called the "small stool dance". It seems an unusual prop to use but there must be some story behind it, just like the temple itself.

Eight hundred meters north of the Jiuzhou town center is a very special plain. It's supposed to be the largest area of flat land in Guizhou, a place where inundating landscapes rule. Guess what people did with this rare break in the landscape? They built a military airfield. It was financed by the Americans during the Second World War and the US air force was stationed here for five months until the Japanese surrendered. Some people still remember seeing the field in full swing.

The airfield extends nearly 10 kilometers and you can easily identify the main and supporting runways. The locals are thinking of turning it back into an airfield again so it can continue to play a role in modern Chinese history.

Twenty minutes drive from Jiuzhou town, along an ancient communications route is a little place called Flying Cloud Cliff. It used to be a postal house where people could stop over and take a rest. There is a temple inside and the place is still the center of local festivals.

The compound is a quiet, restful spot that suits the needs of the tired traveler. It was not only a stop-off point for ordinary people, some high-ranking Qing Dynasty officials have also stayed here. Right now you can't stay overnight, but it's still a good place to enjoy a moment of rest.

One of the Chinese philosophies is harmonies between human beings and nature. This pavilion is one good example. The small pavilion was designed as part of the rocks. You have to climb through steps built in a cave to get to the second floor. It's a strange experience to open a window into the vast greenness of a quiet vista.

A huge cypress tree stands high on top of the rock cave. It's hard to imagine how such a tree could survive on the hard stone. I was told the tree is more than five hundred years old because there are records of it in old books. Somehow it's managed to grow much stronger and bigger than the trees around it.

Jiuzhou city sits in Huangping county, two-hours' drive north of Kaili, capital of southeastern Guizhou. Every April 8th in the lunar calendar, there's the start of a major three-day celebration in Feiyuya.

Around Jiuzhou there are many top rafting routes including the Yedonghe River and the Feiyunxia Valley. Rafting after a storm can be dangerous, but it can also be a real pleasure on a hot summer's day.

In the mountains near Jiuzhou, there live a special group of people. Anthropologists are yet to fit them into a category but they call themselves the Ge Family. You can see them perform in the Feiyun Valley at a rafting resort. The Ge family carries on the warrior spirit and it' s apparent in their costumes. The women look like they're wearing helmets and armor. But the most striking aspect is their headwear 鈥it' s like a sun with an arrow on it. The Ge family believe they are the descendents of Houyi, the legendary figure who shot down nine suns to save the world from being scorched. The girls' hair is arranged to commemorate this brave feat of their hero ancestor.

In Flying Cloud Valley, the Ge people have also ritualized courtship in their own way. They' ve developed a dance that' s both a performance and a game. The girl tries to hit her partner' s back as the boy tries to step on her feet. All the messages and feelings are expressed in this way, aggressive and sweet at the same time.

From Kaili, we head further south east to reach Rongjiang, where we are going to visit the Dong people, one of the other prominent ethnic groups in the region. The Miao people usually live in the mountains but the Dong people tend to make their homes along rivers. Along the Duliujiang River in Chejiang, stand thousands of old banyan trees. They' ve stood here since the Qing Dynasty, protecting the riverbanks and the Dong villages. Many small Dong villages are scattered along the waterway. Their wooden houses have sloping roofs that form beautiful geometric designs.

The Dong people have a reputation for being great singers, diligent farmers and able fishermen. After a daywork in the field, people generally head home and sit at home in a group they call, Xinggezuoyue. It means singing songs while waiting for the moon to rise. Women continue doing things around the house like spinning or embroidering, all the soft work that' up to the females. As they sing along, men play traditional instruments. I got the feeling that the rhythm of their songs keeps pace with the speed of their busy hands and feet. I am sure the monotonous work is much less tiring this way and it' become a romantic way to pass time.

In the Rongjiang county center you could find mid-range hotels and advice on nearby villages. You can pass one afternoon by hiring a boat for a trip along the Banyan tree bank.

The Drum Tower is uniquely Dong in style and it' s where all the important events take place in the village. When the elders decide to have a meeting, the drum on top of the tower is sounded and everybody who hears it, drops what they'e doing and turns up. The drum tower in Dong village Zhengchong is among the oldest of its kind. It was built some four hundred years ago, all from wood, but still stands firm. The drum tower is not only the symbol of the Dong village, it' also their pride. No outsiders can be involved in building it so the final structure reflects the villagers' skills and prestige.

Dong village Zhengchong sits in the mountains one-and-a-half hours from the Rongjiang county center. Surrounded by forests and a little river, it' s like a nirvana tucked away in an unpolluted, unspoiled natural world. About one hundred families make up this small community and the pastoral scenery is impressively serene. You will want hide here forever, soaking up both the environment and the local hospitality.

About one thousand years ago, the ancestors of the Dong people moved from the lower reaches of the Yangtze River to Guizhou, southeast China. The ancestors of Zengcong built their tombs right close to the village. Even in another world they still maintain their tradition of hospitality. Knock knock, anybody home? You are always welcome to visit as a guest.

It' s hard to find a Dong person, young or old, who does not sing. As the Dongs don't have their own written system, traditional folklore and all their important history is passed down in song. There are more than ten types of songs, sung at different occasions - when you' re dating, spinning, sitting in a group drinking, inviting people to drink. The list goes on and on. All in all, the most famous singing village is called Xiaohuang, in Congjiang county, two-hours'drive from the Congjiang centre.

The Dong children learn to sing almost as soon as they start to speak. At the age of five or six, they are sent to special classes for instruction. Each village has its own recognized teachers, who earn their respected titles through general public consensus. The Singing Teacher usually teaches lyrics and rhythm of the tunes to a small group of children. They also decide who will play what role in the choir.

When the children grow up, they don't need a conductor to lead them and any group that comes together can sing like a professional chorus at moment' s notice. Although they are able singers, it doesn' t stop them from drinking, and after a few drinks, their voices get even better.

Such voices can only be heard in this part of China. They' re natural and moving, and reach out directly to your heart. The timeless melody contains all the wisdom and talent passed on in the Dong people. If you want to hear it for yourself, and meet these incredible people, you have to come here to southeastern Guizhou.

Editor:Zhang Wenjie  Source:CCTV.com