The UNESCO heritage city of Melaka in Malaysia is home to a unique culture that began when Admiral Zheng He and his vast crew first visited the city in the 15th century. The Baba Nyon'ya are the result of intermarriage between Chinese men and Malay or Javanese women; and their food, culture and even language reflect that. But while some Baba Nyonya traditions are still thriving, many others, and many traditional trades and crafts are just barely clinging on, in the city’s historic core.
The oldest street in Melaka traditional home to the Baba Nyonya people. The Baba Nyonyas’ unique dress, rituals, food and even language all reflected their roots from the intermarriage of men from China and local women.
Many Baba Nyonya families have moved away from the street, and Melaka. Their language barely clings on but some parts of their culture such as their cuisine remain popular, and there’s interest in their traditional clothing and footwear from foreigners and Malaysians.
"They use for special occasions, for special functions, sometimes weddings they are still wearing the beaded shoes," said Raymond Yeo, Wha Aik shoemaker.
Melaka was jointly awarded UNESCO World Heritage status along with the northern Malaysian city of George Town, Penang. And that status was not granted primarily for their many historic buildings, but rather because they were outstanding examples of ‘living heritage’.
As rents in the core historic zone rise, many homes and traditional businesses are being converted into boutique hotels, cafes or souvenir shops.
K.W. Chan and his father before him have been repairing watches and clocks here for the past 65 years. He says he’s lucky to have a sympathic landlord.
"Whoever is responsible for this isn't doing anything to preserve especially these old trades, and gradually there won't be any more place for this small trades to thrive," K.W. Chan said.
On Blacksmith’s Street, only one elderly blacksmith remains, with no one to take over from him.
"If I don’t carrying on doing this here, this trade will be lost. I feel very sad. I’ve been doing for this for 60 years. The shop has been here 100 years," said blacksmith Chin Sin.
Other craftspeople such as the makers of carved signs still find a lot of demand for their work, though.
"I really feel that this is an important Chinese cultural tradition. I want to make sure that it thrives, that it will continue for generations," said sign maker, Ting Wee Chia.
Preserving the vibrant culture that won Melaka the UNESCO heritage status in the first place…and ensuring that the beautifully restored buildings won’t be all that’s left of the city’s rich history.